Night Lights

This winter, the sea off of Helsinki never froze over completely. Yet spring feels as unreachable as ever; yesterday the rain turned into unpleasant wet snow. Regardless of the weather, the nights are dwindling. As much as I love light, I am feel the need to say good bye to… Click to continue reading

Love and Pain: Munch at the Didrichsen

At the very end, thanks to help from friends, I finally made it to the heavily advertised Edvard Much exhibit “Dance of Life” at the . The museum is on an island just off of a neighborhood called Munkkiniemi in the northwest corner of the city. The building comprises a… Click to continue reading

A little solstice story

The last two nights I have had nightmares, which I see as a good thing. When I was younger and seemingly healthy at least, I used to dream vividly most nights. Later, for many years, it seemed I did not dream at all. Despite the long winter nights, I haven’t… Click to continue reading

The Kale in Kalevala

Almost every Wednesday I travel by tram to my organic food co-op, from which in the late summer into this darkening November I was able to get beautiful Finnish kale, both the typical bright green curly kind, but also silky dark green Lacinato kale. Almost every time, a Finnish person… Click to continue reading

Fall Illumination at Hippolyte

Just as I was getting ill, I wrote a long, depressing and whiny post that– to everyone’s benefit– I did not share. Now that I am recovering and starting to feeling human again, I am suddenly noticing all that is enjoyable in life. Just yesterday I went for an evening… Click to continue reading

Mushroom Time

From this cooling, sweet mouldering earth, Finland is blessed with an abundance of edible mushrooms that give a good reason to welcome fall. The brightly colored chanterelle (kanterelli) is among the most well-known of wild mushrooms. Its bright orange and golden colors catch the eye, and it is not only… Click to continue reading

Exquisite September, Beguiling Birgitta

The terrace of Cafe Birgitta, Helsinki

If you are in Helsinki, you should be outside right now. The weather is painfully beautiful. The temperature perfect, the light mellow and golden. The days are at a humane length. It is a Goldilocks moment before the bears of winter return. This month is also the last call for… Click to continue reading

Nils Dardel at Moderna Museet

Head Hunters by Nils Dardel

This gallery contains 8 photos.

Another great thing about Helsinki is that it is possible to walk from here to Stockholm, by simply hopping on one of the ridiculous ferries that run daily between the two cities. I went to have a look at two exhibitions at Moderna Museet. The first that caught my eye… Click to continue reading

Double Rainbow Helsinki Style

On a ship in the Gulf of Finland, in the middle of a thunder and hale storm: welcome to the Finnish Summer! 2014.08 Sailboat Helsinki Double Rainbow from Cold Song on Vimeo. The video doesn’t capture it; at first it looked as if the rainbow was flying into the ship.… Click to continue reading

Uncovering local brews

At first, I didn’t realize there was any interesting beer in Helsinki. Then some appeared, expensively , when visiting Juuri or Valimo on Suomenlinna.

Pils (Souomenlinna Painimo), Mufloni Aamupala Stout (Beer Hunter's), Nokkospils (Ruokapuoti lumo)

Pils (Souomenlinna Painimo), Mufloni Aamupala Stout (Beer Hunter’s), Nokkospils (Ruokapuoti lumo)

Maybe it is just my obsession with nokka (nettles), but I thought that one was particularly wonderful. An interesting alternative to a green smoothie. These all came from the K-Market that is near the entrance to the underground in Kamppi, at reasonable prices.